Bugs N Beasts

Whenever most of us think of rats we think of the vermin which helped spread the Black Death. However the domestic fancy rats offered as pets make clean, friendly and intelligent pets which tend to be less prone to biting than hamsters or gerbils. Rats are also far more responsive to their owners and ours often greet us in the morning when we’re up and about. Rats are also one of the easiest animals to keep and are less expensive than owning a dog or cat.

There are plenty of rats seeking forever homes in rescues up and down the country with some rescues going as far as to specialise in rats, consider these if you've decided a pet rat is for you. Once you’ve decided that you do indeed have the good taste to consider these wonderful creatures as pets you might want to have a look through the following shopping list…

- A nice BIIIIIG cage
- A spare/hospital cage (we use a Freddy 2 cage which can be bough second hand for around £20-£30 normally).
- A carry case for your rats (for vet visits)
- Food bowls (we have 4 for all of our rats different foods)
- Bedding/substrate (but not sawdust/wood shavings)
- Ingredients for making your own tasty rat food
- Hammocks, toys, shelves, ramps, ladders, balls, wheels and anything else rats like to play with
- Fresh food (eggs, curly kale, chicken, rice and pasta are favourites here)

We think the best place to put your rats is a room which is frequented a lot by people. For some reason rats seem to enjoy watching what their owners are up to. Our rats are placed in the kitchen as this tends to be where a lot of activity takes place especially in the evening. We'd like to stress this is because we do all our animal cage cleaning in there and it's not because we spend all of our time getting things from the fridge (honest).

The first thing you need to know about housing rats is that they need more space than you might think. A hamster or guinea pig cage will be no use for healthy rats as they like to climtb. Flat rabbit and guinea pig cages tend to be well... flat and the bars too far apart to house rats.

The best cages you can buy are large metal ones with as deep a base as possible. Some cages which have been designed with rats in mind include the Freddy2, Freddy 3 and Freddy Max, the Jenny, the Tom, the Explorer, the Abode, the Furet XL and Tower and the Savic Royal Suite. All of these allow the rats to climb on the bars of the cage which will give them hours of amusement.

Although a new rat owner might think such large cages are overkill we guarantee you will not feel the same way when you see just how active young rats are. They will have hours of fun running around in a well-designed ratty pad and this in turn provides you with hours of fun watching them. They are easily one of the most entertaining pets out there and are far more suitable for children than animals such as rabbits.

It is always best to buy as large a cage as you can afford for rats as they will appreciate the space. We here at Bugs N’ Beasts have used the following cages for the following number of rats…

Freddy 2 80(l)x50(d)x63(h)cm = 2 rats
Abode 80(1)x50(d)x93(h)cm = 4 rats
Furet Tower 80(l)x75(d)x161(h)cm = 6 rats (though could house up to 15 rats comfortably).

Bear in mind we only keep does and buck rats need a little more floor space than we offered our girls. Also remember that every rat or group of rats is different but an owner should be prepared to spend a bit of cash in kitting the cage out so the rats have plenty of things to play with and sleep on/in.

Rats need a lot of stimulation in their environment and enjoy climbing on rope bridges, hammocks and other toys. Our rats have hammocks, hammock houses, tubes, balls, a wheel (hardly ever used) and various hides in their cage. Rats are very different to animals such as gerbils and hamsters in that rats will not be happy living in a cage with a wheel, some toilet roll tubes and not much else.

Another thing to bear in mind when setting up your ratty home is what kind of substrate to use (substrate lines the floor of the cage). Some suitable substrates include the following…

Megazorb – Can be bought cheaply online and is absorbant
Shredded card/paper – Can also be bought online or use newspapers (Can get smelly quick though)
Carefresh – Can be bought in some pet shops
Aubiose – Looks similar to aspen
Fleece blankets – Can get smelly quick (in our experience)

One thing that you might be recommended to use is wood shavings. We would urge you not to use these however especially those made from pine trees. Rats have sensitive noses and the dust from wood shavings can irritate them and cause respiratory disorders.

The first thing we must stress is that rats should not be kept alone. The only situation where this would be acceptable is if a rat will not accept others of its own kind after every effort has been made to introduce it to another or other rats. An owner should first try and introduce the group in a place where none have been before (i.e. neutral territory). There are other tricks to try when introducing a new rat, try asking on some online forums for help.
If these don’t work an owner may consider having an animal castrated or spayed which can improve hormonal behaviour as well.

Even if you spend all your waking hours with a pet this is no substitute for the company of other rats. The best thing to do is get litter mates of the same sex though introductions between rats which have never met before can be successful if research is done beforehand. For example we currently have 6 rats living together. We started with 1, then 2 then 4 then another 2 were introduced to make 6.
Many rat owners agree that introductions between does are easier than with bucks. A group should always be same sex (unless animals have been castrated/spayed) as rats should never be bred unless the genetics of each animal are known.

Even rats of differing ages enjoy a snuggle together, the pair in this photo are called Scrabble and Jigsaw and are not related to one another.

In saying all that your rat will love your company too and will often lick or chatter at their owners, sit on their shoulders or hide in their clothes. In terms of character rats are actually far more like dogs than other rodents are, even our rabbits are fairly aloof whereas our rats are greatful for all the time we spend with them.

Every rat has a different personality and even when you have a large number it’s very easy to see they are all very different to one another. In our group we have a kind, tolerant and affectionate old “brown owl” who is our alpha (top of the hierarchy), a very timid girl who even when left in an open cage will not leave it, a happy/dafty girl who prances rather than runs and a cheeky girl who’s always looking for the best means of escape.

None of our rats have ever bitten us though a few are a bit grabby when offered food through the cage bars. Even after being offered treats they will not bite fingers which are put through to give them a scratch (though obviously we wouldn't recommend you go poking your fingers through the bars of a new rats cage).

One amusing habit our rats (and indeed all rats) have is that they like pulling things through the bars of their cage to investigate or chew. If someone is standing close to the cage we often see noses sticking out and paws being swiped through the bars to try and grab clothes or hair. For this reason new rats owners must be careful not to place anything of worth or anything that would harm the rats if they chewed it within grabbing distance of the cage.

Does tend to be a little more inquisitive than bucks and are keen to explore. Bucks on the other hand seem happier to cuddle up with their owners and both display affection by licking their owners hands. Rats will often chatter their teeth when they are content which can be alarming if you’re hearing it for the first time. In contrast to the happy rat an unhappy rat might hiss, fluff up its coat and bite.

It’s very unusual for a rat that’s been well handled to show signs of aggression but it can happen. We have never ever experienced any kind of threatening behaviour from any of our 6 rats. With coaxing and gentle handling however most end up as perfectly friendly pets. Usually aggressive rats are ones that have been neglected and/or abused.

To get a rat used to you try leaving an old worn item of clothing in their cage to allow them to get used to your smell. After this offer your hand and stroke them without attempting to pick them up. Offer treats so that the rat can see you are no threat to them. After a while you can allow your rat out of its cage under supervision.

Both sexes can be trained to some degree and many rat owners will make efforts to litter train their rats. However rats can be taught to come to their names, stand up on their hind legs on command and even taught to fetch a suitably sized stick or toy. As is the case when training most animals treat bribes work best though a rat owner must be careful not to give too many treats.

Unfortunately rats do have some bad habits. Both does and bucks will scent mark their territories (which might include your skin and clothes along with furniture and carpets). Individual rats might also show a fondness for chewing. Rats such as these might be best suited to living in a cage with a metal base rather than a plastic one.

Although our rats have a large cage and plenty of toys they do enjoy their free rang time. This is usually done in a hallway where there is plenty of room for them to move about but no where for them to escape to. They get at least 2 hours of free range time a day and while the younger rats like to play and explore the oldies prefer to go to sleep in a comfy hideaway.

Unfortunately fancy rats are prone to a few problems the main one being respiratory diseases. These can usually be treated by a vet with antibiotics but as with any possible problems an owner must be prepared to seek the advice of a qualified vet as soon as they notice anything out of the ordinary. The sooner a problem is diagnosed the sooner treatment can start and the chance of a full recovery is greater.

Tumours
Sadly rats are also prone to tumours and does seem to get them more than bucks. Sometimes these can be removed with surgery but the risks of this for older rats may be too great for it to be an option.

Inner/Middle ear Infections & head tilts
We have had three cases of a mild respiratory disease and two rats that have suffered from infections of the inner ear. One of our rats that had the ear infection has been left with a permanent head tilt as even though treatment was started early the infection had progressed too far for either to make a complete recovery. Sadly even after many visits to the vet the other had to be put to sleep.

Some rats also suffer from tooth problems and it’s important to keep tabs on their weight. A reluctance to eat hard food and weight loss might indicate tooth problems and it is advisable you take your rat for a check up at the vet.

For an excellent guide to rat health have a look at the “Rat Health” section on the following website

Rats are omnivorous like humans and can eat nearly anything. As a result they might try and eat things they should not and we have had to remove things like scented candles from their free-range area.

Muesli made for rodents might be best to avoid as the rats tend to eat only the bits they like and leave the rest. As a result they do not get the nutrients they should and may suffer for this later on.

Making your own rat food is probably the best option as this will give them the healthiest diet. We use the idea behind the Shunamite Diet which is along the lines of the following…

Base food is normally rabbit food and the following brands are good to use = Alpha herbal deluxe, Burgess Supa Frutti Rabbit, Harrison’s Banana Bunny Brunch and Burgess Supa Natural.

Dog kibble brand which offer good quality protein include Burns Complete Dry, Autarky Nature Lite, James Wellbeloved Senior/Lite, Nutro Choice Lite and Skinners Lite.

Many different cereals can be used but avoid ones with sugar in them some good ones to use include weetabix, shredded wheat, sugar free puffed wheat, weight watchers flakes, whole earth corn flakes, jumbo oats, Oatibix, sugar free puffed rice, plain rice cakes and ryvitas.

It’s also a good idea to offer your rats fresh food and they will enjoy eating fresh fruit and veg, a little cooked meat, dry grains and rice, cooked pasta and some treats which are made especially for rats. Our girls love to eat yoghurt and yoghurt drops, chicken and rice. They also love to gnaw through mixed nuts that still have their shells on and this keeps them amused for a while.

It all probably sounds very complicated but once you get the hang of it things are actually quite simple and the above food mix is far better for your rats than any of the rodent foods you can find in a pet shop.

AQUIRING A RAT

We would recommend you get your rat from a rescue or a breeder if at all possible.
A good breeder will take good care of their rats and ensure any young are handled from as early an age as possible. Rats bred by a good breeder will have been bred for health, temperament, colours and markings. You may find that breeders have a waiting list for their rat kittens but it is worth putting your name down.

When buying a rat make sure it isn’t sneezing, looking withdrawn, thin or showing any other symptom of disease. A healthy rat should be bright and alert and have a healthy coat and skin. Although it may be tempting to take pity on a sick rat we would recommend you don’t buy a rat that seems to be in ill health or too young. A rat should be at the very least 6 weeks old before it is sold or given away but 8 weeks is better.

There are also rescues up nd down the UK which have rats looking for homes. We have included some links at the end of this care sheet for you. It can be far more satisfying to give an unwanted rat another chance at life.

Rats should have their cage completely cleaned at least once a week and should be spot cleaned in addition to this when required. We do a hammock wash twice weekly, litter trays are cleaned three times weekly and the cage itself is cleaned weekly.

RAT HEALTH CARE & INFORMATION
Lots of information on how to keep your rats happy and healthy
http://www.ratz.co.uk/

SPOILED RATS
An excellent resource with care information and photos. This is the website of a rat rescue and so isitors can check for available rats.
http://spoiled-rats.webs.com/