Rabbits

First of all we suggest you read this page before you decide to buy a rabbit. It was written by us though we have used a few other resources which are included at the end of the article.

SOME HOME TRUTHS ABOUT KEEPING RABBITS

Rabbits can make wonderful pets but often they are a far cry from the pet everyone wants them to be. Many do not enjoy being picked up and cuddled and may give their owners a nasty kick or scratch.


HOUSING

First you must decide if you want your rabbit to be an indoor or outdoor rabbit. If you'd like to keep a house rabbit you must take care to "rabbit proof" your home. Rabbits do enjoy chewing things they probably shouldn't and wires, curtains and wallpaper seem to be big favourites.

Here is an article from an excellent rabbit care forum that details ways in which you can "Bunny Proof" your house

http://forums.rabbitrehome.org.uk/showthread.php?t=51536

You can make a "house bunny house" from a large dog crate and even add shelves. This allows you to keep your rabbit or rabbits indoors.

The alternative would be either an outdoor hutch or a play shed with an attached run so the rabbits can exercise. If you are going to buy a hutch the recommended minimum size is 72"(l)x24"(d) with enough room for the rabbit to stand up without its ears touching the ceiling. Hutches that can be bought from pet shops are rarely suitable and you would be better either making your own or getting someone good at woodwork to make one for you. However we have come across these two websites which offer good quality hutches and runs…

http://therabbithutchshop.co.uk/

http://www.happyhutch.co.uk/

You will need to either allow your rabbit access to a secure garden or buy it a run in which to exercise. Minimum size for this would be 72"x48" and it'd need to be secure from predators and offer protection from the weather. You can be creative when thinking about having a rabbit run though. We keep our two rabbits in an 8'x6' playshed which attaches to an 8'x5' aviary-type run. Tthey also have a secure garden to play in when someone is home.

Below are some pictures of other peoples rabbit set ups for inspiration. Feel free to copy these as they are excellent examples of how rabbits should be kept.

These pictures show how a shed can be converted into a rabbit home and are from XMissySJx of Rabbit Rehome Forums

These pictures show how a hutch can be used indoors and are from prettylupin of Rabbit Rehome Forums
Home made Hutch
8ftx2.5ft on two storys
8ftx6ftx4ft run
NOT PREDATOR PROOF - Rabbits must be supervised when using such a set up
Indoor puppy pen for holidays

This is our set up for Roly and Honey. The shed measures 8'x6' while the run measures 8'x5', the hutch within the run is 5' in length and 2' in depth. The rabbits enjoy sitting in it during the day as they can see what's going on.

Inside the hut
The "Bun-Gate"
Hut and run
Hutch
Hay rack
Honey playing

BEHAVIOUR

Every rabbit is different and unfortunately many people believe that rabbits are cute little animals that will be perfectly happy for you to pick them up and give them a squeeze whenever you like.

The reality can be somewhat different however. You may be lucky and get a rabbit that worships the ground you walk on and will follow you around like a puppy all day but don't bet on it. Most rabbits will be happy to allow you to cuddle them when they like but most don't enjoy being picked up. Remember that rabbits are prey animals and naturally shy.

Rabbits would also prefer it if they weren't stuck on their own all day. Another rabbit is the best companion you can get for your bunny and neutered/spayed male/female pairs seem to work best. You can maybe keep a lone bunny as long as you yourself have plenty of time to spend with him/her. Please do not be tempted to keep a rabbit and guinea pig together. A rabbit can easily kill a guinea pig and both animals communicate in different ways. Guinea pigs tend to be vocal little creatures but rabbits communicate with body language.

If your rabbits are happy the rewards are there for any owner. Many rabbits will do a little happy jump (commonly known as "binkying") every now and then. Bonded rabbits will snuggle up together and groom each other (while you stand outside and go awwwww). Outdoor bonded rabbits will probably not care for handling quite so much as indoor rabbits would.

If you do not neuter or spay your rabbits then you could end up with babies. Don't trust a pet shop that sells you two boys or two girls as it can be very difficult to tell what sex they are when they are young.

If you have an un-neutered boy he may spray his hutch with urine, mount other rabbits (or animals of similar size). Un-spayed female rabbits may develop uterine cancer which is hard to diagnose.


HEALTH

Rabbits need annual vaccinations against Myxomatosis and Viral Haemorrhagic Disease though owners must leave 2 weeks in between having them done. Your vet may recommend an annual vaccination for Myxomatosis but as the vaccine only really lasts for 6 months you should really take your rabbit in for myxi jabs twice annually.

Both of these diseases cannot be treated well and the vast majority of rabbits that contract them die. However the vaccinations are very successful at preventing the rabbit from catching them in the first place.

Smelly litter trays attract flies which can lay eggs on your rabbits bottom. If the rabbit cannot clean itself the maggots will hatch and burrow into the rabbits skin. This mess attracts more flies and eventually the rabbit will die. "Fly Strike" can kill a rabbit very quickly so ensure you keep checking your rabbits for problems.

Here is a thread on Fife Rabbit Rescue's forum which details some excellent ways to help prevent fly strike

http://www.fiferabbitrescue.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=164

If your rabbit suddenly stops eating and refuses its favourite treats take it straight to a vet. Gut stasis can be fatal in rabbits as their bodies are designed to constantly eat and poo.

You may notice your rabbit suffering from a condition known as "Head Tilt" where the animal will constantly keep its head tilted at an angle. One of the causes of this is Encephalitozoon cuniculi (or E. cuniculi for short) which is a protozoan parasite that can be picked up spore form by pet rabbits. It can also cause complete/partial paralysis and kidney disease. Your vet will most likely prescribe a course of pancar and anti parasitic drugs.

Some rabbits suffer from Dental Problems and you must keep a close eye on what they eat and how. If a rabbit is chewing in an odd manner, drooling, eating less or has lumpy jaws visit your vet for a check up. Rabbits suffering from dental problem will suffer a lot of pain if they are left untreated.

Your rabbit's nails will need checking and can become overgrown. If this occurs it would be best to have a vet show you how to cut the rabbits nails properly rather than trying to do it yourself first time.

In summer you must also ensure your rabbit can stay cool. Make sure they have shaded areas and on very hot days offer them a large juice bottle which has been filled with water then put in the freezer (though watch out for your rabbit chewing on the plastic). Providing a cool surface to lie down will also help your rabbit and you can buy ceramic tiles for this purpose.

In winter ensure the hutch or shed is watertight and that damp does not rot the hutch. Treat it with a wood stain that is safe for pets to prevent this. You can also buy products that act like hot water bottles from here http://www.snugglesafe.co.uk/
Provide extra straw for your rabbits to use as bedding and check your pets water bottle to ensure it hasn't frozen. Please remember that rabbits do NOT hibernate and if your rabbit becomes lethargic take it straight to a vet.


DIET

90% of a rabbits diet should be good quality hay (timothy or oat). Rabbits enjoy alfalfa hay as a treat but as it has high levels of protein and calcium it is not suitable as a staple diet. You can buy hay from shops that sell equine supplies normally and this will usually work out cheaper than buying a £3 bag from a pet shop. Other things to feed include

  • Carrots (and the tops)
  • Spring Greens
  • Curly Kale (Not too much though as this is high in calcium)
  • Broccoli
  • Cauliflower leaves
  • Parsley
  • Basil
  • Red Cabbage
  • Savoy Cabbage
  • Spinach
  • Rocket
  • Brussel Sprouts

Fruits can be fed as a treat but are too high in sugar to feed as much as hay or most veggies.

  • Apple (though not the pips)
  • Pear
  • Banana
  • Melon
  • Mango

Here is another website which details other fruit and veg you may wish to feed your rabbit

http://www.petwebsite.com/rabbits/rabbit_fruit.htm

Another thing you should consider is buying some good quality rabbit pellets. We use Supa Rabbit Excel and feed our two rabbits half a cup each every other day. These are usually a more complete food than simply using hay and vegetables but try and ensure pellets you buy are at least 18% fibre. Don't be tempted by the "rabbit mix/muesli" that you can buy in pet stores. Rabbits will only pick their favourite bits and leave the rest meaning they don't get all the nutrients they need.


CLEANING

Rabbits should have their litter trays cleaned every day and we usually clean ours at night time. They are very clean animals and very easy to litter train.

Make sure you give your hutch a good scrub out at least once a week, this will prevent smells building up which may attract flies. Make sure the hutch is well dried out before allowing the rabbits back in it though.


IN SUMMARY
  • Rabbits are not the most suitable pets for young children
  • Rabbits may not enjoy interacting with you as much as you'd hope
  • Advice from many pet shops must not be relied upon and care must be taken to research from differen sources
  • The best place to get a rabbit is a rescue centre, failing that try re-homing websites
  • Rabbits need a lot of space to live and exercise
  • Rabbits prefer to live in pairs or groups
  • Rabbits should never be kept with guinea pigs
  • Rabbits should not be bred at home. There are thousands of rabbits all over the country in need of homes
  • Neutering/Spaying rabbits helps with hormonal behaviour and females are far less likely to get uterine cancer
  • Rabbits need to visit the vet at least three times a year for vaccinations
  • You must check your rabbit daily for health problems as they can suffer from quite a number of serious ones
  • The main thing to feed your rabbit is hay (which must be availavle 24/7) though you can also add fresh fruit/veg and good quality rabbit pellets
  • Rabbits should have litter trays cleaned every day and the hutch once a week at least

OTHER RESOURCES

FIFE RABBIT RESCUE
A website which offers great advice on rabbit care if you care to check the forum. There are also usually rabbits that are in need of homes can be viewed on the site. The rescue centre also offers good quality hutches which can be ordered
http://www.fiferabbitrescue.co.uk/

RABBIT REHOME
A website which offers an online discussion forum where you may register and ask questions. It also has many detailed pages on different aspects of rabbit care. You can also search for rabbits that are in need of homes in your local area.
http://www.rabbitrehome.org.uk/

RABBIT WELFARE ASSOCIATION & FUND
http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/

MAKE MINE CHOCOLATE
A Campaign designed to make people think twice before buying a rabbit as an Easter present
http://www.makeminechocolate.co.uk/

ANIMAL WELFARE ACT
It's your duty to care
http://www.defra.gov.uk/animalh/welfare/act/index.htm