Corn Snakes

Corn snakes are the most popular pet snake in the UK with good reason. They are extremely hardy snakes, come in a huge array of colours and have docile natures. Hailing from the US originally they are now captive bred across Europe for the pet trade.

A shopping list for a corn snake would be as follows…

  • Vivarium. A 3-4’ viv is ideal for an adult though hatchlings and juveniles are better kept in smaller tubs or faunariums.
  • Heating apparatus. Either a heat mat or ceramic heater is best.
  • Guard for your ceramic heater (if you’ve opted for this).
  • Thermostat. Essential to control output of heating apparatus.
  • Dish for water.
  • Substrate. Megazorb, aspen, shredded card/paper, kitchen roll and newspaper all make excellent substrates.
  • Hides. A snake will feel exposed without access to a hide and it’s best to have at least 2 in the tank. One can stay in the warm end of the viv while the other can go in the cool end giving the snake a choice. You need not buy hides but can make them yourself from cereal and shoe boxes.

You can buy artificial plants and branches for a snakes viv though you can also use branches cut from fruit trees as long as they have been properly cleaned. A corn snake will certainly appreciate some climbing opportunities.

Some things to consider before buying a corn snake would be…

  • Will someone with the required knowledge be able to look after my snake while I’m on holiday?
  • Do I have access to either a high street or online shop to buy supplies and food?
  • Will anyone mind me having a bag of dead rodents in the freezer?
  • Am I ready to take on a pet that could live to be 20 years old?
  • Will anyone in the household have a problem with a pet snake for example if anyone has a phobia?

HOUSING

A young hatchling corn snake can be kept in a small faunarium or storage box with small holes drilled or melted into it. Putting a tiny hatchling snake into a large viv is asking for trouble in some cases as snakes tend to get slightly nervous when presented with too much space. Some guards made for ceramic heaters have mesh which would allow a very young corn snake to slip through and burn itself.
For young corn snakes a heat mat attached to an appropriate thermostat may be easier to use.

Vivarium
Faunarium

The temperature inside the vivarium should be on a gradient of around 21oC in the cooler end to 30oC at the warm or basking end. A ceramic heater will need to be screwed in to the top of the viv and held in place by a bulb holder that can handle the heat output. A heat mat on the other hand will need to be covered by a tile of some kind so that snake cannot lie directly on it. Covering it with substrate will not work as snakes will often bury themselves in the substrate.

You can upgrade the snakes housing as it gets larger, in the past we have started them in faunariums, moved them to a 28” viv with a heat mat/thermostat then finally onto a 3-4’ wooden viv with a ceramic heater and thermostat. Some people use large storage tubs to keep adult corn snakes in and as long as the snake has enough room these are fine too. You would not be able to heat one of these with a ceramic heater however.

Whatever you decide to use a thermostat is essential as occasionally heat mats and ceramic heaters can overheat. If a thermostat is not in place in this situation the viv occupant can be injured or even killed.

Another thing worth noting is that corn snakes are great escape artists. It may be worth buying a lock for your viv so at least you have a reminder to ensure it’s properly shut.

It is best to clean your snakes viv completely at least once a month. Remove the snake and keep it in a secure container while you remove the viv furnishings and substrate. Bin the old substrate and wash all viv furniture in a weak disinfectant solution. Rinse it thoroughly with hot water and do the same to the viv. Dry both well before adding new substrate to the viv and replacing the furniture.

BEHAVIOUR

Corn snakes are generally very docile snakes though there are times when they may be a little grumpy.

Adult male snakes may also get slightly frisky during breeding season and may go off their food for a few months in late winter/spring. Female snakes will also refuse food when gravid and about to lay eggs.

If a corn snake is feeling defensive it will usually start off by rattling its tail. If its attacker hasn’t got the message it will rear into an S shape and strike. If it manages to bite it will back off very quickly, when our presenter has been bitten by snakes she remarked on how the whole thing was over before she realised what had happened.

Normally however corn snakes are very docile snakes and as long as they are handled reasonably regularly and properly they should not show aggression.

SKIN SHEDDING

When your snake is getting ready to shed its skin it may feel vulnerable. At this time the snakes eyes will turn blue and it may go off its food. It’s best to leave the snake alone when it is going through a slough cycle and make sure it has access to a water dish it can soak in, it will do this to loosen the old skin before shedding.

Before the telltale blue eyed phase appears you may notice your snakes colour is a little duller than normal. Its underside especially may take on a slight milky colour. A few days later the snakes eyes will turn blue and it will appear quite dull. This is caused by a fluid the snake secretes between the layers of skin. After a few days the eyes will turn clear again and a few days after this the snake will shed its skin.

 

HEALTH


Most of the health troubles we’ve heard about corn snakes tend to be caused by difficulty in shedding in particular the area around the head and the end of the tail.

If a snake seems to be having trouble shedding prepare a vented box with damp kitchen roll or towels and leave the snake in this either over its heat mat or in the viv under the ceramic heater. The humidity generated by the towels with help the snake to shed any remaining skin. After a while take your snake out and allow it to crawl through a damp towel. This should remove any skin that has been left unshed.

Make sure to check for unshed eye-caps which are clear scales that cover the snakes eye. Also check the end of the tail to ensure all of the skin has come off there. Old skin wrapped around the end of the tail can tighten and stop blood circulating to the end of the tail.

Snakes can also fall victim to mites which are tiny arachnid parasites that live on the snake and drink its blood and body fluids. Check around your snakes eyes and nose as the skin is slightly softer here and watch out for drowned mites in the water dish. They will often appear as tiny black specs.
To get rid of mites bathe the snake in warm water and remove and disinfect all cage furniture. Set the cage up again but plain kitchen roll as a substrate as mites have to lay eggs in loose substrate. Check your local reptile shop or ask your vet about a treatment to kill the mites.

All reptiles can contract respiratory diseases and if your snake is wheezing or is suffering from excess nasal discharge it is best to seek advice from a vet.

FEEDING

Corn snakes are best fed on appropriately sized mice. A food item should be around one and a half times the width of the snakes head.

Hatchling corn snakes will take pinky (baby) mice then move onto fuzzies or fluffs (mice that have just began to grow fur) then onto small adult mice before being large enough to take adult mice. For hatchling to juveniles we feel it best to feed every 5-6 days while an adult corn snake will be happy enough with one mouse every 10-14 days.
Oscar has just eaten a mouse

If your corn snake regurgitates its meal keep a close eye on it. This may be due to an illness or the wrong conditions in its viv.

Never feed your snake a live mouse or rat, aside from the fact it is cruel and unnecessary a rodent is easily capable of injuring your snake. Instead buy frozen rodents from a pet shop and defrost them at room temperature. Do not be tempted to use mice caught and killed in a garden as they may carry parasites.

AQUIRING A CORN SNAKE

There are many specialised pet shops dealing with exotics across the UK though you may also be able to purchase a corn snake from a fellow hobbyist who has young available.

Don’t forget to check your local paper or internet adds as people may be wishing rid of a corn snake nearby.

IN SUMMARY

  • Corn snakes are an excellent choice of pet reptile for a beginner
  • They are normally docile and easy to handle
  • They are not particularly prone to any major health problems
  • Corn snakes are undemanding and do not need a massive enclosure
  • They do need a heat source within their enclosure best provided by a ceramic heater or heat mat
  • Corn snakes eat frozen rodents which have been defrosted

OTHER RESOURCES

Corn Snake
Corn snake information
http://www.cornsnake.co.uk/

The Corn Snake UK
Corn snake information, forum and photos
http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/

Captive Bred Forums
Reptile, amphibian and invertebrate forum
http://www.captivebredreptileforums.co.uk/

Livefoods Forums
Reptile, amphibian and invertebrate forum
http://www.livefoodshop.co.uk/forum/index.php

Reptile Forums UK
Reptile and amphibian
http://www.reptileforums.co.uk